Kitchen wood test 2013
My Agenda: Determine which finishes give a natural (non plastic) looking finish - and survive hand washing reasonably well.
The plan: 3/4"x1-1/2"x2" cherry blocks, sanded to 1200 Treated then glued to scrap steel bar (sanded to 120) Subjected to multiple cycles of: Long soaks in hot dish-soap water Scrubbing with Scotch-Brite Heavy Scrub Sponge Rinse, dry, repeat
Code (burned into blocks) Can Saf Wal Cnt Tng Lin Tea Wat LS LUT LCT LB Drg BMO BCM Jhn Meg Prm Tru WOU
Full Name Canola Oil Safflower Oil Walnut Oil Coconut Oil Tung oil Linseed Watco Teak Oil Waterlox Original Linseed-Shellac Linseed-Spar Urethane-Turpentine Linseed-Carnauba Wax-Trupentine Linseed-Bee's Wax Dragon's Blood Bee's Wax-Mineral Oil Bee's Wax-Carnauba Wax-Mineral Oil Johnson's floor wax Meguiar's carnauba plus Permalyn Tru-oil Urethane
Formulas Note: "part" measurs are by volume Canola Oil Safflower Oil Walnut Oil Food grade coconut oil Tung oil Chemically "Boiled" Linseed Oil (the common variety) Watco Teak Oil Waterlox Original (from Tung oil) 1 part "Boiled" Linseed Oil, 1 part Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac 2 parts "Boiled" Linseed Oil, 2 parts Helmsman Spar Urethane Clear Semi-Gloss, 1 part Turpentine Dissolve 1 part falked Carnauba Wax in 2 parts Turpentine, then add 2 parts "Boiled" Linseed Oil Tried & True Original Wood Finish - this is traditionally boiled (polymerized) linseed oil 1/2 oz Rattan Palm Dragons Blood Resin, 1oz Turpentine, 1oz Cold Pressed Linseed Oil. Dissolve the Resin in Pure Gum Spirits (1-2 days) - strain through cheese cloth - add Linseed Oil. 1 part Bee's Wax, I part Food Grade Mineral Oil 1 part Bee's Wax, 1 part Carnauba Wax Flakes, add Food Grade Mineral Oil for crayon consistency at room temp. Note: I flaked the Bee's wax to make approx. equal to Carnauba volume. Johnson's floor wax Meguiar's carnauba plus Permalyn Gun Stock Finish Tru-oil General Finishes Wipe On Urethane
Treatment Immerse wood in the oil and leave for 3 days, agitating daily. Remove, wipe, and let cure 24 hr. Hand rub, then quick buff with sheepskin disk. Immerse wood in the oil and leave for 3 days, agitating daily. Remove, wipe, and let cure 24 hr. Hand rub , then quick buff with sheepskin disk. Immerse wood in the oil and leave for 3 days, agitating daily. Remove, wipe, and let cure 24 hr. Hand rub , then quick buff with sheepskin disk. Heat wood & oil to ~ 175 degrees F. Let cool slowly. Let sit for 3 days. Re-heat to remove & wipe. Let cure 24 hrs. Hand rub , then quick buff with sheepskin disk. Immerse wood in the oil and leave for 3 days, agitating daily. Remove, wipe, and let cure 24 hr. Hand rub , then quick buff with sheepskin disk. Immerse wood in the oil and leave for 3 days, agitating daily. Remove, wipe, and let cure 24 hr. Hand rub , then quick buff with sheepskin disk. Per instructions: 2 coats, wiping off excess. Hand rub , then quick buff with sheepskin disk. 3 coats, 24 hours between coats (sand @ 600 between 2nd & 3rd coats). Hand rub , then quick buff with sheepskin disk. Immerse wood in the oil and leave for 3 days, agitating daily. Remove, wipe, and let cure 24 hr. Light turpentine rub - Hand rub , then quick buff with sheepskin disk. Immerse wood in the oil and leave for 3 days, agitating daily. Remove, wipe, and let cure 24 hr. Hand rub , then quick buff with sheepskin disk. Immerse wood in the oil and leave for 3 days, agitating daily. Remove, wipe, and let cure 24 hr. Hand rub , then quick buff with sheepskin disk. 3 coats per instructions, rubbing between coats. Hand rub , then quick buff with sheepskin disk. 1st coat: apply until saturated, wipe off excess, dry 2-4 days. Repeat coating as needed - additional coats will dry in 6-24 hrs. Hand rub , then quick buff with sheepskin disk. Apply 3 coats, hand rub in and sanding* between coats. Very light final coat. Hand rub , then quick buff with sheepskin disk. Apply 3 coats, work in by handrub , then quick buff with sheepskin disk. Apply 2 coats, work in by handrub , then quick buff with sheepskin disk. Apply thin coats, work in by handrub. Total of 6 coats used. Hand rub , then quick buff with sheepskin disk. Per instructions: 3 coats Permalyn Stock Finish. Hand rub , then quick buff with sheepskin disk. Note: I skipped the 2 sealer costs described as optional. Per instructions: 3 coats, sanding* between. Hand rub , then quick buff with sheepskin disk. 3 coats per instructions, sanding between coats. Hand rub , then quick buff with sheepskin disk.
* Note: I'll sand between coats with 400 to 600 grit rather than Steel Wool as the Steel Wool leaves black grit in any pores in wood such as Oak. Darkens wood, some luster. Darkens wood, some luster. Darkens wood, some luster. Darkens wood, some luster. Darkens wood just a little, some luster. Darkens wood, not much luster. Darkens wood, nice luster. No darkening, nice luster. Very little darkening, light shellac sheen. Darkens wood, light urethane sheen. Darkens wood, nice luster. Little darkening, very nice luster. A little darkening, some luster. A little darkening, some luster. A little darkening, nice luster. No darkening, nice luster. No darkening, nice luster. No darkening, very nice luster. No darkening, very nice luster. A little darkening, some sheen.
After the first cycle: Good, some luster. Good, some luster. Good, some luster. Good, some luster. Good, some luster. Good, a little luster. Good, some luster. Good, some luster. Good. Some luster/sheen. Good. Some luster/sheen. Good, some luster. Good, some luster. Nice. Good luster. OK, a little luster. Nice. Good luster. OK, a little luster. OK, a little luster. Nice. Good luster. Nice. Good luster. Good, some luster.
After the second cycle: OK, a little luster. OK, a little luster. Good, some luster. Good, some luster. OK, a little luster. Mikey doesn't like. Dull. OK, a little luster. OK, a little luster. OK, a little luster. Good. Some luster/sheen. OK, a little luster. Good, some luster. Nice. Good luster. OK, a little luster. Nice. Good luster. OK, a little luster. OK, a little luster. Good, some luster. Nice. Good luster. OK, a little luster.
After the third cycle: OK, a little luster. OK, a little luster. OK, a little luster. OK, a little luster. OK, a little luster. Mikey doesn't like. Dull. Mikey doesn't like. Getting dull. OK, a little luster. Mikey doesn't like. Getting dull. Mikey doesn't like. Getting dull. OK, a little luster. Good, some luster. Nice. Good luster. OK, a little luster. Nice. Good luster. OK, a little luster. OK, a little luster. Starting to fade - I really should have done the sealer coats. Nice. Good luster. OK, a little luster.
After the forth cycle: OK, very little luster. OK, a little luster. OK, a little luster. OK, a little luster. OK, very little luster. Mikey doesn't like. Dull. Mikey doesn't like. Getting dull. OK, a little luster. Mikey doesn't like. Getting dull. Mikey doesn't like. Getting dull. OK, very little luster. OK, a little luster. Good, some luster. OK, a little luster. Good, some luster. OK, a little luster. OK, a little luster. OK, a little luster. Good, some luster. OK, a little luster.
After the fifth cycle: OK, very little luster. OK, a little luster. OK, a little luster. OK, a little luster. OK, very little luster. Mikey doesn't like. Dull. Mikey doesn't like. Fairly dull. OK, a little luster. Mikey doesn't like. Fairly dull. Mikey doesn't like. Dull. Mikey doesn't like. Fairly dull. OK, a little luster. OK, a little luster. OK, very little luster. OK, a little luster. OK, a little luster. OK, a little luster. OK, a little luster. OK, a little luster. OK, a little luster.
Food-safe? Keep in mind that - on the one hand, someone out there will be allergic to any of these finishes - and on the other hand, fully cured finishes that hold up well are not likely to be leaching into food - especially from a knife handle. Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes probably fine after curing - but some concern about the metallic driers in "boiled" linseed oil Probably not No probably fine after curing - but some concern about the metallic driers in "boiled" linseed oil probably fine after curing - but some concern about the metallic driers in "boiled" linseed oil probably fine after curing - but some concern about the metallic driers in "boiled" linseed oil and residual turpentine Yes Residual turpentine might be a question Yes Yes No Not likely Not likely Not likely Not likely
In the first cycle, all but four blocks fell off the steel - with the G/Flex releasing from the steel and sticking to the wood. I re-ground the steel to 120 grit and re-glued the blocks with G/Flex. For comparison, in a similar test in 2011 with the steel ground to 400 Locktite E-120HP only released three blocks after the third cycle. After five cycles, three of the blocks that had stayed on in the first cycle have now released, plus three of the re-glued blocks.